THE RIVER
On my walks down the road into the jungle I often got glimpses of the Ayampe River below. Not much water in it right now. This is the same river which feeds the lagoon next to my lodge. Since the mosquitoes have been just horrendous when walking the jungle road, I figured if I’m going to get eaten alive that a change from the road to the river might be in order for a change of scenery and maybe the birds. So I set out at daybreak this morning, and put my sights on walking along the river. I’d seen families wading and splashing around in the water from up above. I was hoping to not get my pants wet, but in seeing they were getting wet anyway, I scrapped that idea.
Turns out there is a “road” that parallels the river, crisscrossing it now and then. It did not appear to be used much, which was probably a good thing. It did not take me long to realize the mosquitoes were almost absent! Wow, what good fortune. At times I wondered if I could have gotten by without insect repellent and long sleeves. Maybe I’ll chance it next time.
The shanties thinned out along side the river, and after a half mile I only knew there was a dwelling on the south side of the river, into the jungle, from the large cement water basins with a power line running to them.
Cement Water Basin |
Nice that they could have running water way out here, but I doubt they drink it. I was in my glory now - it was so quiet, no bugs, and lots of birds. The visibility was about as good as could be expected - the river being in a large ravine with steep sides, but I could always see a good distance in every direction.
Green Kingfishers were common and welcome. I got half-way decent pictures of both a male and female.
Female Green Kingfisher |
Male Green Kingfisher |
As usual, birds were singing all around me, but most I was unable to identify to species, but I think I’m catching on a little. I thought I was hearing Whooping Motmots, but turns out these were Blue-ground Doves.
Others that I heard and did know what they were - Rufous-headed Chachalaca, Ecuadorian Trogon, Blue-gray Tanager, White-tipped Dove, Ringed Kingfisher, Tropical Kingbird, Yellow-throated Toucan.
One thing that intrigued me were all the Long-billed Starthroats (Hummingbirds).
Long-billed Starthroat |
I’m sure I tallied a dozen during my walk, and sometimes 2 or 3 in one place having their jousting contests. I also found a female Esmeraldes Hummingbird building a nest, the experience of which was enough to motivate me to make a separate blog, so you can enjoy that one as well.
Early into the river walk I found a Muscovy Duck sitting in a tree.
Muscovy Duck |
But by the looks of the plates, I think he is of the domestic variety, and the wild ones are not likely to occur in the area I’m in. I also got some decent shots of a pair of Golden-olive Woodpeckers, a Thick-billed Euphonia, a Southern-beardless Tyranulet, and a Giant Cowbird.
Here's me getting ready for mosquitos |
I saw a pair of Golden-olive Woodpeckers, and here's a shot of one.
Golden-olive Woodpecker |
There were just as many more I did not get because my autofocus has difficulty in the maze of the jungle variations. By now there is only one potential woodpecker to find - the Red-rumped Woodpecker.
I was able to add 2 new lifers. The first I’d been assuming I’d find sooner or later. The Sooty-crowned Flycatcher. He looks like the Dusky-capped Flycatcher of the states, and I’d seen a few of those already. But the eBird records showed it to be common, so I figured it was just a matter of time. The other lifer was an Elegant Cresentchest, a beautiful small tropical bird. But, I only got enough of a look to ID it, so a good pic will have to wait.
Shortly after I started my return trip I sat to eat some snack food and get hydrated. Now that I know a hike up the river is doable, I have some solid intentions to take my day pack with food and supplies and hike back upriver, maybe twice as far. I suspect it gets remote by then and my wife probably ought to remain ignorant about my plans. I guess it is simply, “The Call of the Wild.” I also figured out that some of the ground doves I was only getting glimpses of were of the blue variety (Blue Ground Doves). I hope to get a decent shot of a male as they are so pretty.
When I was almost back to where I started the river walk, there was a large group of people on the bank opposite from where I was, and it appeared they were having a cookout. As it turned out, I had no other option but to walk down the middle of the river, right next to them. They were quite friendly and made that apparent by waving with the usual, “Buenas Dias.” One young man was sitting in a plastic chair in the water, so I struck up a conversation with him. “Where are you from, is this your family, etc.” Both of us had the Google Translate app so communication was easier. I noticed the ladies were cooking the food over a camp fire, and in about 5 minutes the young man, whose name was Junior, asked me if I had eaten yet. I said no, and he then invited me to join them. So I accepted. In about 20 minutes the food was ready and they served me first. I felt a little timid about it, but figured this was as it was supposed to be.
Junior and Me |
Junior turned out to be quite the jokester for after he said something everyone else would often laugh. I surmised some of it might be at my expense, because this usually happened right after we used the google app to communicate. But it did not really matter. I could sense everyone was having fun. Turns out most were family, and they lived in Salinas, about 1.5 hours drive to the south. Junior worked in the shrimp industry, doing something with a breeding program. I have known that on the Santa Elena Penninsula (where the city of Salinas is) there are many salt lagoons for shrimp, and birders patronize them for the great birding locations that they are. Many see their first wild flamingos at such places.
After a hefty meal of chicken, rice and gilled plantains, it was time for me to go. So I told Junior that inviting me to their family cookout meal was a wonderful thing to do to let foreigners know that Ecuador is a great place to visit. He relayed such to everyone, and they nodded their approval. And with that I took off, back to my room for a shower and rest. My pedometer says 3.2 miles, so I probably walked about 1.25 miles upriver.
A few days later I left for the river again, at dawn. The mosquitoes were worse than the last time, but not so bad as to dissuade me. En route there I found a Pale-legged Hornero to photograph.
Pale-legged Hornero |
I had been seeing them around and finally got one to cooperate. The name “Hornero” in Spanish means Baker, but I am unaware of the significance. There is a species up in the mountains called a “Canistero,” which means basket maker because he makes a nest that looks like a basket.
Not long past the houses I heard it. The unmistakable sound of a male Howler Monkey. I had heard there were monkeys here, but as I did not hear one on any previous trips into the jungle I had completely forgot about it. Twice more during the morning I heard one. I suppose it is a welcome sound, but others may not be as approving.
A nice surprise was finding a Roseate Spoonbill feeding upriver from me. As I’ve only seen them in marshes or other standing water, it was a surprise to find one in a river with moving water. I could see the bird was a little antsy about me edging closer toward it, so I'd walk a few steps and then stop, take pics, then resume, til I was able to get these pics. You can tell why they are named such by looking at the bill.
Roseatte Spoonbill |
Roseatte Spoonbill |
I happened to turn around once and looked up to see a Gray-line Hawk above in a tree, so was able to get his pic.
Gray-line Hawk |
After a couple miles I stopped and ate a breakfast of 3 small cans of tuna and some snack type food. The tuna in cans here is much better than what we buy in the states. Drank some water and then resumed going upriver. In another half mile or so I found a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques, large blackbirds with lots of bright yellow on them. Since I ended up finding another colony of these birds, and as entriguing as they are, I decided to do a separate write-up on them.
On the way back I finally got a decent pic of a Blue Ground Dove who landed fairly close.
Blue Ground Dove |
After that 2 very red birds whizzed by me, and one landed where I could barely see him. I stalked carefully to where I could start taking pics, and then I determined they were Hepatic Tanagers, a new one for the trip. He just would not allow me a good pic, so this is the best I could do.
Hepatic Tanager |
An interesting surprise happened while about half way back. I often see vultures riding the thermals up above me and don’t pay much attention to them unless I notice one that seems to be different. Today that happened. I raised my binoculars because one looked a little “odd.” I could see from the shape and flight style it was something else, so got on it with my camera and snapped a few pics just in time before it went below the horizon.
Black-hawk Eagle |
If you enlarge this picture you can barely see some whitish markings on the wings and tail. The bill is large also. I was then able to nail it down as a Black-hawk Eagle. Such is the benefit of having a camera that will do such. With only binoculars I could not see those details. This was a nice addition to my life list.
I was quite tired when I got back. I probably overdid it. So I jumped in the pool to cool off. That was indeed refreshing. My legs are tired.
Sunday March 7
Today I returned to try to get better pics of the male Esmeraldes Woodstar which Javiar found the previous day, and shortly after getting there Dan Kotter showed up to do the same. We had some ideas about taking the river back so he could see the female’s nest, but he was short on time so we parted ways. I walked the river so as to refind the hummer nest and provide more specific directions for the location to Dan. After looking at the river, I could tell it really must have rained a lot last night, as the water was a good 6 inches higher, flowing more swiftly, and had a murky cloudiness to it. So I had to be extra careful now about not falling with my camera and iPhone.
By now the sun came out and it was getting hot, so I occasionally splashed water in my face. In about a half hour I spooked a heron. I was puzzled as to which species it was as it showed brown on him. It landed in a tree about 50 feet away, so I maneuvered to where I could at least get some pics by which to ID him. Then he spooked again and landed in the next tree down river. So I stalked him until I was able to get more pics. I think he got used to me, and stayed put until I had a few good pics, so here’s one. Turns out he is a Rufescent Tiger Heron.
Rufescent Tiger Heron |
Eventually I got to where the hummer nest was. It looked like it could be finished from what I could tell. I waited around for 6-7 minutes but she was a no show, and as it was hot, I left. After getting back to my cabin I mailed the description of the location of the nest to Dan.
On the night of March 8 the heavens let loose, and we received a hefty drenching. Dan was intending to look for the nest the following day, but the river was now too high, so that will have to wait until it recedes some. A few days later he was able to relocate it.
Once again, it was into the pool to cool off and then to the hammock. Tis turning out to be some vacation .............
Yellow-crowned Night Heron |
Fasciated Wren |
Bananaquit |
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