MINDO

 3/14/21

I left Ayampe at 09:00 for a 3 hour drive to the airport with Eduardo. He is a really nice guy.  Saw a Savannah Hawk en route.  Going through the various Covid checks, ticketing and security at the airport was smooth and easy.  I texted Rosie before getting on the plane, and last told her I’d text her when I got to Quito.  Right after that I got a text saying my Claro (Cell Service) service for the month had expired.  So when I got to the Quito airport I got on their WiFi but I still could not text her.   Met my guide Javiar and his driver Cecil and we embarked on the 2 hour drive to Mindo. I saw a Tropical Mockingbird near the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World) site.  I finally texted her via the WiFi at my lodging so she’d stop worrying. 

The MINDO signage with the town park in back

It was rainy all the way to Mindo, and a little chilly, but still a nice change from the coast.  I’d be here for 12 days I think.  Javiar and I have talked about costs and where to go.  So we have some big plans.  

I’m staying at a place Javiar recommended called, “Cabanas Armonia & Jardin de Orquideas” which has something to do with orchids.   The owner Tatiana keeps hundreds of orchids, and knows most by name. When you walk through the property it is like walking in a jungle of plants walled up on both sides of the aisles.  It is a nice place and well worth the money.  It was supposed to be $18/night with breakfast, but since I hardly ever eat breakfast here, she lowered it to $16/night and $3 per breakfast when I do eat here.  My cabin is bigger than the other 2 I have stayed at, newer, cleaner and nicer.  Is fairly quiet here except on weekends when the town seems to fill up and there are more 4 wheelers, trucks carrying those tube raft setups for going down the river, and just more traffic.  

During my time in Mindo I went to the Milpe Reserve, the Birderwatcher’s House, the Mashpi Reserve, the Oilbird Cave, Angel Paz’ Reserve, Zuro Loma and Yanacocha en route back to Quito.  While in Mindo I went to the Waterfalls, and visited the Botanical Gardens X4.  I’ve gotten to know the manager at the latter place,  Alcivar,  quite well by now.  I think he gets enthusied when a birder stops by as he seems to relish showing them the birds.  Otherwise, I think he gets bored.  I also visited the Quetzal Chocholate Factory for a tour, and I learned a lot about the entire Chocholate industry. 

The first night, not long before I was to get up for the day of birding, I heard what I thought was someone outside whistling.  It was a 4-5 note descending whistle.  I really thought it was someone’s daily routine for starting the day.  It was repeated a few times, but since it was so consistent I began to wonder.  I started sorting through the possible bird songs, opened up the eBird list for the area and went through a few nightjars until I came to Common Potoo.  It was a perfect match.  I heard him every night thereafter.   I recorded him also with hopes to add that here, but I can't figure it out.

It has been said that Mindo is the “Birding Capital of Ecuador.”   Javiar confirms such.  And there are a lot of birds here, and some 400 have been recorded in the vicinity.  It might be also described as a hub from which to bird from, as there are many more bird species within an hour or so from there.   If one goes upslope or downslope there are different species.  

I wish I kept a list of the birds seen from the property my cabin is on.  It might push 100.  There are a pair of Rufous Motmots that hang out right outside of my cabin and have been making a burrow for a nest.  There is also a hole in the concrete walkway about 20 feet from my porch in which an Agouti claims as his.  I was sitting on my porch one evening and saw him next to the hole and wondered if he came out of it, so the next evening I readied the camera about the same time, and out he popped.  He gave me about 15 seconds to take a few pics.

Agouti

The next day I watched one of the Motmots land next to the hole, check it out, and then he went in it!  He stayed in it for about 5 minutes.  After coming out, he stood on the concrete for a minute and then went back in, so I decided to reposition myself at a different angle to try for a better picture, but as I neared the hole, his mate spooked (who I did not see) causing the one in the hole to come out.  But it worked in my favor, for he perched on a branch right in front of me and allowed my camera to do its thing.

It’s the middle of the rainy season, and it seems to start raining in the late afternoon or early evening and continue into the  night and by morning it has always stopped.  During the day it may be overcast or partially clear.  I don’t think I’ve seen a totally blue sky as yet.  The temperature is mild and I’ve only worked up a sweat one day - when I was walking the 2 miles back from the waterfalls and it was a little humid.  Otherwise, everyone wears a light weight clothes.  

In a way I think the town has lost its charm.  It has become too touristy.  Thee are sooo many lodgings and restaurants and offices for this tour and that tour.   But it is still the logical choice for where to stay on the west slope.  Plenty of lodging to choose from, plenty of places to eat, a few birding guides to pit against one another, great birding around the town itself, and great birding not far away.  Plus and ATM that works well with almost every debut card.  Even a dentist comes there on Mondays and Tuesdays! 

One of the local farmers selling his produce in town

“My Altitude” app says I’m at 4115 feet elevation.  

Smooth-billed Ani

Bay Wren

Red-billed Parrot

 
A large beetle.  Javiar said it was the time of the year
when they were dying off. He was a good 2 inches long

The Smooth Billed Ani
Her bill is a big as her fanny
No isn't that uncanny!

Mindo is also a great place to be weather wise - not too hot and not too cold.  I sensed that no one used either a heater or AC there.  It may have been a little chilly in the rainy season, but compared to the coast, and comparing it to the rainy winters in Oregon, it was just fine with me. 

There is lodging in Mindo called, “The Yellow House,” which has been popular with birders.  I was even going to be staying here before Javiar redirected me.  I understood there to be trails here, so went over one morning.  Turns out the trail was UP for about a mile through cattle pastures before finally reaching the forest.  

On my way up there I saw a movement in some trees of something large, which I assumed was going to be a chachalaca, but it turned out to be 3 Brown Capuchin Monkeys.  They were angry about my presence and one began throwing some kind of fruit he was eating my way.  I picked up one and threw it back at him.  After a bit I moved on, up into the forest.  They were still there upon my return.

Brown Capuchin Monkey

Brown Capuchin Monkey

Guayaquil Woodpecker

Ornate Flycatcher

White-tipped Dove