THE POOR MAN'S GALAPAGOS

2/11/21

The Galápagos Islands are the dream destination for some who go to Ecuador. I think they can only be reached from airports in this county.  For some they remain just a dream, because the cost is too prohibitive.  So many opt to experience them in micro by going to Isle de la Plata, or, Silver Island, or nicknamed, “The Poor Man’s Galapagos.”  The island is a 75 minute boat ride from Puerto Lopez, 10 miles north of Ayampe.  It is mostly known for the massive Booby colonies, and less so for a few other species, and for humpback whales in season,  of which this is not.  The tour operators are scaled back now due to the rainy season, and for Covid issues,  so only run Tuesday-Saturday.  And if the weather is not permissive, or if there are not enough participants they will cancel tours as well. 

The island is part of the larger Machalilla National Park system, so you can only go there through a licensed tour operator, of which there are plenty to choose from. They have both English and Spanish speaking guides,  and one must be part of a group and stay on the trails.  You are not free to roam around as you want.  

The majority of the boobies are the Blue-footed variety, with lesser numbers of Nazca Boobies, and even less Red-footed Boobies.  Plus a few Red-billed Tropicbirds can be seen flying around at times.  I was hoping to see some Waved Albatrosses as the field guide which was published about 20 years ago states that some nest there.  Another field guide was published in 2013 which says nothing about such, and only that they are rare off the coast but can be seen on the Galápagos Islands.  I was able to learn that the tours to Isle de la Plata have been going for some 20 years now, and it is thought that the tourism impact on the island had the negative influence such that they do not nest there now.  

It is thought that sometime in the past some pirates buried treasure there, so the name Isle de la Plata derived its name.  But no silver has ever been found, and it is more likely and reasonable that name was acquired by the reflection of all the guano covered rocks which shine like silver in the sunshine.   

Eduardo was supposed to pick me up at 8:30 so as to be at the tourist office by 9:15.  But someone named Ronny showed up, who I’d never seen as yet, so it appears some of the various taxis coordinate with each other.  So I got to the office in time, paid my fee, and headed for the dock.  I walked through the vendors on the beach selling their catch of last night.  You can be sure it smelled of fish.  I reached the dock and walked out to the end where I assumed the embarking took place.  I had been told there were to be 10 of us, but after talking to the few who were there, the other 9 were no where around.  About the time the boat was to take off, a lady who at least spoke some English came out and we ended up retreating to land where I learned that 6 of the others were supposedly in an accident and so there was only 4 of us.  Normally they don’t run with so few and asked us to cough up another $5.00 which we did.  Then we had to wait about a half hour for  it to materialize.  That worked out OK as I met a couple from Minnesota who were going as well, and the lady who brought them there was an American who had been in the country for 24 years who knew the ins and outs, and I learned lots from her.

We finally got loaded on the boat and took off.  The guide’s name was Ricardo who spoke decent English and was pretty helpful with the birds.  A big plus was that the ocean was quite calm,  so the boat could go at top speed.  About half-way out we stopped near a fishing boat which was surrounded by Frigatebirds and Blue-footed Boobies.  I also saw 2 small terns which I suspected were Black Terns, and the photos I took of them confirmed such.

Richardo and Me

Frigatebirds on the Mast of a Troller on the way out.

We finally reached the island and disembarked.  The climate is pretty dry as it does not get much rainfall.  Richardo said the current leaves on the small trees would only be there for about 2 months, and the rest of the year were bear.  He also said many birds from the mainland come over to nest now.  I had a few target species to locate and found most of them.

Isle de la Plata from a few miles away

The Welcoming Center

The first one was a Collared Warbling Finch.  This one was found during the hike up to the summit where we had almost a 360 degree view.  But it was hot and the trail steep in some parts, and while only about 1/2 mile, I was close to heat exhaustion when I got there, so laid down to cool off.  Right there we were introduced to the first pair of breeding Blue-footed Boobies.   As we walked down the other side we’d “run into” a few other pairs right in the trail.  On the way down I saw my next target, a Short-tailed Woodstar, another really small hummer.

The trail up

We finally reached the top of the cliffs on the other side and could look down at boobies on the water, many of whom were immature birds just out of the nest, and all huddled up together in one large flock.  Soon my 3rd target bird zoomed by, a Nazca Booby, a nice change from all the blue-footeds.  

Nazca Booby

These were mostly white with some black in their wings.  The scenery was really worth the walk.  Blue water below and cliffs filled with boobies and frigatebirds.  

Blue-footed Booby

Blue-footed Boobies.  The males have the lighter colored eyes

Blue-footed Boobies

Blue-footed Booby

We next walked to the east along the rim and in a few hundred yards came to where the Nazca Booby colony was, walked up to a few and took pics. 

Nazca Booby

And then it was time to return back over the hill.  We all got back in the boat and headed a few hundred yards east, parallel to the cliffs.  Ricardo announced that it was time to go swimming if anyone wanted to.  The guy from Minnesota was wearing shorts so he and Richardo went in.  I was sooo hot and I was wishing I had brought shorts along.  I finally asked Richardo if I could swim in my boxers to which he said, “Sure.”  So I was the next one in.  Talk about a refreshing swim!  They had goggles and snorkels one could use, so I got those on and swam close to shore where it was shallower.  There were plenty of colorful fish to be seen.  The guy from Minnesota said he had a ray swim right under him.  There were also sea turtles around, and while we saw them from the boat,  we did not see them while swimming.

Green Sea Turtles

Magnificent Frigatebird

After I got back in the boat Richardo pointed to a pair of Red-billed Tropicbirds, another target of mine.   I took some 150 shots and here is the best one.  They were never closer than 100 yards so it was difficult to present a better photo than this.  And while the 3rd passenger decided she wanted in the water, I spied my last target bird, a Red-footed Booby.  He was way up on the cliff with some frigates and a difficult find. I even got his red feet in one photo. 

Red-billed Tropicbird

On the upper right you can see the Red-footed Booby

Finally it was time for the trip back.  I watched the sea for storm petrels going out and then again for about half-way back.  I sensed the sun was starting to cook my light skin so got more into the shade of the roof of the boat.  As we were pulling up to disembark I saw a shorebird sitting on the rim of a small boat that turned out to be a Ruddy Turnstone, a new bird for the trip.  

If you are ever planning on being anywhere close to the area, I recommend going out to Isle de la Plata.  It is worth it.  Bring shorts or a bathing suit as  cooling off after the hot walk is worth it.  

Sally Lite Foot Herself!