INTRODUCTION

When I read that Ecuador was opening up for tourism last July or August, I began brainstorming a trip there for the upcoming winter.  I knew my wife would not be thrilled about me going, so I dropped hints now and then before releasing the big bomb.  It took her a week to get over it.  I knew from the beginning she would not be going with me as she has obligations to take care of her aging mother.  Plus, she was not wanting to travel during the pandemic.

So I felt I ought to go where she was not inclined to go, so began researching the coast.  I was drawn to the central coast for a couple of reasons.  South of there it is just too dry for me, and too many people.  The central coast was less crowded, and had a reputation for good birding.  I narrowed it down to Olon or Ayampe as these were said to be quieter than Montanita, the bigger party town just south of Olon.  Eventually I ruled out Olon and settled on Ayampe as it was smaller and had lots of jungle to the east, which meant good for birding.

One thing good about the Airbnb websites are that you can start communicating with the owner before you make a decision to commit to any one place.  I asked the owner about the jungle, the lagoon and the river in relation to birding.  I also asked her if there was a dentist nearby, to which she recommended one in Monanita where she got a crown last year for $300, so that was something I’d be looking into since my teeth were needing attention.  So I settled on renting a cabin from her for the first 3 weeks, leaving the last 4+ weeks open.  I figured after I had been there for a bit I’d have a better feel for what I wanted to do.

I ended up deciding to move to another place in Ayampe after the 3 weeks were over.  I considered going to Olon, but heard it was noisy at night, something Ayampe prides itself in NOT being.  Ayampe is mainly a surfing and yoga center, attracting mostly young gringos.  Virtually no one was concerned about COVID and hence very few masks were worn, and, no Covid was there and had not been for quite some time.  I think I only saw one other gringo with gray hair while I was there. 

After the first 3 weeks I moved to a lodge at the south end of town where it was even quieter, a place called Punta Finca Ayampe.  I was there for another 3 weeks, by which time my dental work was done, so I headed to higher ground.  The heat and humidity and bugs on the coast were really too much for me, so I flew up to Quito and then descended to Mindo, half way down the western flank of the Andes and was there for 10 nights, during which time I really got into birding.  

At the end of my time in Mindo I went back up to Quito  for one day in which time I went up to Antisana, where the Condors soar, and then caught a flight back to Guayaquil for the last 3 days to get a Covid test and catch my return flight from.  Some have told me I was nuts for traveling during the pandemic, as well as by myself, not knowing the language and etc.  For me it was simply one big adventure.  I’ve been to Latin America 10X in the past, so this was not all new.  With the google translate app basic communication is doable.  

I rarely refer to Covid in the narratives except as necessary.  My short opinion:  I don’t think covid is anything more than a bad flue, and the reaction by countries/governments is way over hyped.  My first hand exposure to all this confirms such, and the best distancing I do is from the media.  I’m sorry if you don’t care for my opinion, and if you stop reading here, I won’t  be offended.  Enjoy. 

Ayampe is where the small red point is.  Offshore to the NW of there is the Island of Isle de la Plata where I went.  Guayaquil is lower middle where the gray area is. 

Here's a more close up shot from Google Earth.  You can see the green jungle east of town.  The Gray line is the boundary between the provinces of Santa Elena and Manabi.

Iguana poking his head through the door