PART 3: WILD SUMACO TO BANOS TO ANTISANA

                        TO WILD SUMACO AND BEYOND 

In a way it was nice to be out of the jungle and move on to the next chapter of our trip.  Some of us could also better nurse our chigger bites.  The bird list was now at 417, almost 200 more than when we got into the boat.  I knew that Wild Sumaco would be a huge uplift for birds, as if we really needed such.  We would have liked to have our laundry done at the hotel in Coca, but they would be a little latent to have it ready the next morning even if we got it to them upon arriving there the previous day.

After a morning walk to the Malecon along the riverfront and breakfast, we were off toward Wild Sumaco.  The first order of business was to stop in Loreto and scour a certain soccer pitch for Carib Grackles.  It appears they are colonizing the town, assumedly coming from Columbia.  I mistakenly thought they’d be the same size as a Great Tailed Grackle, which may explain why we missed them the first time through town.  

When we reached town someone spied a suspicious looking bird, so we turned around only to find it was a Black-billed Thrush.  However, it so happened there was a pair of Pearl Kites in sight, so the stop paid off.  Also present was a Chestnut-bellied Seedeater.  We then located the soccer pitch where the grackles had been reported from, and after walking around a bit, located a Red-breasted Meadowlark, a lifer for all.  Right after that we found a lifer-for-all Grackle.  Much smaller than expected.

PEARL KITES

Not far after leaving Loreto we found the road to the Sumaco Volcano.  Knowing this road was good for birding, and that we could not check in until 12:00, this would be a welcome way to kill time.  We got great looks at a Yellow-headed Caracara, but not so great looks at a Dark-breasted Spinetail.  Black-throated Mangos were the most common hummer here.  We also got good looks at the male White-lined Tanager.  Someone went by on a motorcycle and asked if we were going to Wild Sumaco, in English.  We figured this was Byran, our birding guide to be.  And not far up the road a lone Military Macaw was perched in plain sight for all to see. 

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA

MILITARY MACAW

We got to the Wild Sumaco Lodge just after noon, checked in and were soon enjoying the hummers at the feeders.  This place is spendy, but certainly set up with birders in mind.  After lunch we set off with Byron.  He is an amazing birder, knowing all the bird calls and was great at finding them.  For the next couple of hours we were in good hands and racked up some meaningful additions to our list.  Of the 15 hummers seen at the feeders or elsewhere, the new ones were Ecuadorian Piedtail, Black-throated Brilliant and Gould’s Jewelfront.  Just before setting off a Black Hawk-Eagle flew overhead while a Buckley’s Forest Falcon called from just out of sight.  Interesting birds on that first walk were Fiery-throated Fruiteater (WOW!), Slaty-capped Flycatcher, Dusky Spinetail, Blue-rumped Manakin, Buff-rumped and Montaine Foliage Gleaners. Ochre-breasted Antpitta and Long-tailed Tapaculo coming to eat worms put out for them.  Blackish Antbird, Red-headed Barbet, Coppery Chested Jacamar, Lined Antshrike, Orange-eared, Golden and Spotted Tanager, as well as a few Scarlet Tanagers from the states were also seen well.   Later in the walk we saw a Crested Quetzal.  

FIERY-THROATED FRIUTEATER

OCHRE-BREASTED ANTPITTA

Later on we drove a few hundred meters past the lodge to a small marsh where Byran fed a Blackish Rail and her chick.  Nearby were 3 Golden-collared Toucanettes,  2 Yellow-throated Toucans, a calling Collared Forest Falcon, Red-billed Parrots, Scaly-naped Amazons, White-eyed Parakeets, and a Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant.  After dark Byran called in both a Rufescent and Foothill Screech Owl, and we got visuals on both.  

BLACKISH RAIL

BLACKISH RAIL CHICK

RUFESCENT SCREECH OWL

The next morning at 06:00 we were at the moth trap for an hour.  Birds which were coming were: Black-streaked Puffbird, Plain-winged Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Western Fire-eye, Black-faced Antbird, Short-tailed Thrush, Plain-brown and Olive-backed Woodcreepers and Black-billed Treehunter.  The Chestnut-crowned Gnateater was a no show that morning. 

BLACK-STREAKED PUFFBIRD

WESTERN FIRE-EYE.  FEMALE

After breakfast we went for a walk on a few trails and we saw the Gnateater which was absent at the moth trap.  One specialty bird Byran hoped to find for us was the Yellow-throated Spadebill.  But he was a no show.  The other specialty did show, the Brown Nunlet.  Otherwise, the Wing-banded Wren was a hit.  The Large-headed  Flatbill was well heard but would not come close to be seen.  A super brief look at a Bat Falcon by 2 of us was a let down.

Mitch offered to extend our stay a bit by buying lunch.  We were waiting for lunch on the back porch for a Napo Sabrewing, which finally showed up.  Soon afterward Byran popped out of his chair all excited, trying to get us on some bird.  That bird turned out to be a Green-throated Tanager, and Jonas said it was only the 3rd record for Northern Ecuador.  It was a lifer for Byran as well as the rest of us.   Certainly the highlight of our trip, and ironically # 500 for the trip.

GREEN-THROATED TANAGER

After lunch we left, first heading back up the road to look for a Slaty Finch which we did not find.  Back on the main road heading west we’d stop at a bridge looking for White-capped Dippers 2 or 3 times.  An hour down the road and it began raining heavily, and when rounding a certain corner we noticed the power lines were low, close to the road.  We then saw 2 power poles basically down as well as 2 trees over the power lines, prohibiting cars from going further.  We were the 2nd car there, and figured this must have happened within a few minutes at the most.  Plus, the bank on the uphill side of the road looked to be starting to give way, so we decided we had better turn around, and fast.  This was difficult as the road was not real wide, and we did not want to drive on the electric wires.  Plus, a box truck pulled up in back of us and the driver was confused about what was going on, and he was not backing up any too quickly.  Once we were by him a bus came hauling around the corner. This bus we had passed a couple times earlier and the driver was on some mission to speed to his destination and had passed us twice.  (They need to stop often to take on and let off passengers.). He drove right under the power lines which resulted in them resting on his mirror.  We were glad to get by him and out of danger.

We now had a decision to make.  Should we wait until the power company came and cleared the road?  How long might that take?  Or, we could take the “long” way back to Cosanga?   To wait for the road to be cleared was an uncertainty, and here in Ecuador this could be hours ……or days.  At least the long way around there’d be more certainty getting to Cosanga.  We opted for the latter option, so drove back to Coca, then north to Lago Agrio, then west to Baeza and then south to Cosanga - 8 hours total!  We arrived after 10:00 PM.  This was the only real negative thing that happened.  We did at least add a few new birds to the list be stopping at a flooded field - Solitary Sandpiper, Semipalmated Plover and Black-bellied Whistling Duck. We did complain a little that if we did not stop here and there, taking up 5 minutes of time, we would have made it through OK

We were back up on the ridge the next morning, and the weather cooperated.  After hanging out at the entrance for a bit, we meandered slowly down the trail.  The best bird we were able to get on was the Greater Scythebill.   Others seen were Green-and-black Fruiteater, Rufous Wren, Common Chlorospingus, Three-striped Warblers, Oleaginous Hemispingus, Hooded Mountain Tanager, Grass Green Tanager (What a gaudy bird!) Blue-and-black Tanager and Beryl Spangled Tanager.

Toni only had the car to pick us up, and had to make 2 trips.  So Mitch waited with Jhonny for her to return.  I had asked Jhonny to use playback to try and lure in a Flammulated Treehunter, said to be there occasionally.  After we left and 5 minutes of playback, one responded, but did not come out for a visual.  

After brunch we headed back toward Cosanga, and went down to the river where we located the Ladder-tailed Nightjar who has been roosting in the area for months.  Eric went for a swim here.

THE RIVER THROUGH CONSANGA AS SEEN FROM A FOOTBRIDGE

NORTH AMERICAN DIPPER

We decided to try birding on the road where we had been a week prior, but by now it was midday, and bird activity was minimal, so we took off to our next destination to the south.

Upon reaching the ridge we stopped and used playback again to try and lure the Flammulated Treehunter back.  After a few minutes I turned it off, only to hear him respond.  So I kept at it.  He was close at times, but quite stubborn about being seen.  While the others walked off a few feet to view from different angles, the bird popped up in front of me right in the open.  I whispered to Aaron to come over, but the bird saw the movement and dove out of sight, never to be seen again.  A lifer for me.  At least the others heard him very well.  

It would be about a 90 minute drive to Tena to the El Estable de Tomas Lodge, a quaint little place on the outskirts of town with cabins.  Fernando said he went to High School with the owner.  It appeared they did not know anything about the reservation I made, so I showed them the email communication.  They soon showed us each to a cabin.  

This was a decent place by a river, and there was a pond on the property.  Birding turned out to be decent as well, and we saw Squirrel Cuckoo, Striated Heron, Amazon Kingfisher, Lafresnaye’s Piculet, Golden-olive and Spot-breasted Woodpeckers, Common-tody Flycatcher, Red-eyed Vireo, Summer Tanager, Opal-rumped Tanager, Swallow Tanager and Green Honeycreeper.

When I moved to Vilcabamba a birder named John Mills lived there, and we birded together now and then.  But he liked to move around, and luckily for us he now lived in Tena and we’d hook up with him the next day.  Both he and the lodge owner recommended a certain restaurant in town, so I figured we ought to go there.  The electricity was out (what else is new) so we ate by candle light for some of the time we were there.

In the morning Aaron heard a Wood Rail.  I would have liked to pursue him, but we were short on time, needing to meet a man named Sandro who would take us to his private reserve where he fed a few birds.  We met him at 07:00, drove a short distance to where we parked, 

A VIEW OF THE SUMACO VOLCANO
NEAR WHERE WE PARKED

and then walked a ways to a shelter where we waited for Black-bellied Hummingbirds to show up at the verbena flowers.  Since they were slow in coming, he took us “down” the trail to the antpitta feeding blind where he put out the speaker and played the White-lored Antpitta call.  The bird responded not too far away.  After 10 minutes of waiting I felt sure this bird would be a no show, but in another 5 minutes he came.  He was skittish and did not stay in the open very long.  We later found out that John had been there twice and the bird was a no show both times.  John also mentioned that it is a rare bird as it is.

WHITE LORED ANTPITTA 

Upon walking to another feeding station there was a Crane Hawk up in a tree we walked under, seemingly oblivious to us, and I was able to get a reasonable picture of him.  The next feeding station had a Black-faced Antthrush coming, and this time it only took about 5 minutes for him to show up.  He was not skittish and ate til he had enough, also allowing me to take plenty of pictures.  

BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH. 

We then returned to the shelter surrounded my the verbena plants and while waiting for the Thorntail to show up, a Blue-tailed Emerald obliged us, a first for the trip.  Soon after a female Thorntail showed, a lifer for us all.  Sandro asked us if we’d like to see a Coquette, to which we were all ears, so we drove back north a bit to a private residence with lots of flowering plants.  The Coquette was a one time, really brief showing, and I think Aaron and Eric were the only ones to see it.  Otherwise, other birds there were a Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Mottle-backed Elaenia, Short-crested Flycatcher, White-bearded Hermit, Glittering-throated Emerald, Chestnut-bellied Seedeater, and Bluish-gray Saltator.

We dropped Sandro off in Archidonia on our way to have lunch in Tena where we’d meet John Mills.  Aaron and Eric knew John from former trips where he helped us find birds on Cerro Toledo, so it was a nice reunion of sorts.  He told us he recently upgraded his photography equipment, spending $15,000 for a new lens.  Phew, he was serious. He decided to cancel an on-line appointment so he could bird with us after lunch.

We headed to the Ama Lodge where John would meet us.  By now it was sunny and hot, so bird activity was low, but we’d still find Scarlet-crowned Barbet, Yellow-green Vireos and a few others.  When John arrived he used playback to draw in 3 Plushcrowns, a new one for the trip.  He then took us to the newly built tower.  The tower was still in its final stage of construction but looked finished enough to hike to the top, which we did.  While up there a Spider Monkey decided to come over and check us out, coming and perching only some 15’ away.  I suppose he was curious about these people coming up to his level.  

SPIDER MONKEY

BABY BROCKET DEER

While in this area we got better looks at some Hoatzins, and our checklist from here includes Yellow-bellied Dacnis, Blackpoll Warbler, Orange-bellied Euphonia, White-eyed Parakeets, Dusky-headed parakeets, Hook-billed Kite, and Ruddy Ground Dove.  There was also a baby Brocket Deer hanging around, and since it was somewhat tame, we wondered if it was an orphan.

John then took us to a place where a pair of Point-tailed Palmcreepers were.  This is normally a rare and hard to find species, but John knew these were here.  After playback, they came right in and occasionally flew between palms, eventually allowing good looks and photos. 

POINT-TAILED PALM CREEPER

John next took us to check out a colony of Casqued Caciques, which we got good looks at.  A little far though for good pics.  While there John heard Yellow-browed Tody Flycatchers, which turned out to be a lifer for him, and he stayed on them until he got some splendid photos with his new set up.   A little down the road and we encountered 3 Bare-faced Ibis.

Afterward John took us to a road on which to bird, but since it was now getting late and bird activity was low, we decided to part ways, John going home and us to our next destination.  Our next lodge was an hour south - The Tamandua Lodge.  Once again we were thankful for the google map app which got us to the turn off.  However, once off the main road it was unclear just where it was and how far to go.  We turned around once thinking we missed the entrance road, but that was the wrong decision.  So we retraced our route some 5-6 miles on pavement until we came to a T, turned right according to the sign, then in 2-3 miles turned left according to the next sign.  In another 2 miles or so the road came to a dead end.  We were bewildered so say the least.  Being almost dark made things more confusing.  

But through the forest we could see a faint light, so Aaron and Eric took the trail which led in the direction.  Mitch and I were waiting, and waiting.  After about 15 minutes they returned along with a guy named Luis who had a wheel barrow to haul our stuff.  It turned out that they had no record of my reservation, and Zack, the young English speaking host, called the lady who makes reservations.  We think they were low on business, so she offered to lodge us for $50 per person, to which Aaron and Eric agreed.  This was a good deal for us, since it was now dark and was half the price of the former reservation I had made many weeks prior.  We had to wait a bit until our rooms were ready, and afterward had dinner.

THE VIEW IN BACK OF THE TAMANDUA LODGE

USING MY CAR FOR AN ART CANVAS

ONLY 4 ON A MOTORCYCLE?  WE DID SEE 5 ON ONE.
NOW IF THEY ONLY MADE MOTOR CYCLES A LITTLE LONGER…

By the morning light we could easily tell this was a great place for birds.  There were the verbena plants and hummer feeders for the hummers.  Other passerines were obviously present.  The views out back were great!  With such birding potential we were stoked.  So for an hour before breakfast we enjoyed birding.  Coming to the feeders near the dining room were Gray-breasted Sabrewing, White-necked Jacobin, Collared Inca, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Many-spotted Hummingbird and Black-throated Brilliant.  

CERULEAN WARBLER

But during breakfast it began raining with consistency.  After breakfast we retreated to an upper deck under a roof, sat down, and watched birds coming and going in the adjacent forest.  New for me were a few Cerulean Warblers, winter migrants from the states.  I even managed to get a photo of an adult.  Other birds we saw were Black-masked Dacnis, Black Antbird, Dusky-capped and Short-crested Flycatchers, Brown Capped Vireo, Summer Tanager and Scarlet Tanagers, and a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper.  We sensed that the rain was of a permanent nature, so packed up and left.  Some 5 miles or so down the road and Eric could not find his cell phone.  So back to the lodge we went, and when Eric reached the lodge, Zack was there with his phone.  Phew!  What a relief.

The city of Puyo was a short distance to the south and we took the highway skirting around the west side.  We then hung a right toward Banos, stopped at a bridge and saw 3 Fasciated Tiger Herons, two of which were immature birds.  There were also a few Snowy Egrets and one each of Striated Heron and Black Phoebe.  The Phoebes here have white in their wings and much more black to the undersides, covering most of the belly.

The jaunt “up” to the town of Banos was scenic.  A river was on the left/south side of the road and an occasional waterfall could be seen coming off the hillside opposite us.

Banos is a tourist town and certainly set up for such, offering various tourist activities like white-water rafting, hiking, bike riding, zip-lining, etc. The streets are all narrow and one-way.  Parking is at a premium.  We saw a municipal type of guy who printed off some kind of parking permit which we were to pay once we left, although just how to pay it was a little vague.

We found a restaurant to eat at, went to a super market for junk food, and then walked back to the car.  The municipality guy was not around so I figured the lady at our hotel could help me pay it.  Our hotel was on the “other” side of the river and to reach it we’d need to cross a certain bridge which like a little dubious to me.  The lady at our hotel said that bridge has been in place for 60 years and there was some concern about its durability.  

Carman, the lady who owned the hotel, helped me pay the parking permit.  I ended up having to wire $ from my bank account to pay a .50 fee and it took me 15 minutes to do so.  Carman said the locals and tourists were really fed up with the present parking payment system.  The hotel was very nice for only $25 per person.

After we were settled in we went back out and drove “up” a road which went to the south of town, looking for birds.  We did not have much success.  We then went to a popular waterfall area for a dipper, and dipped on that.  So as it was raining and late, we returned to the hotel.  I decided to have the guys take a taxi into town for dinner while I rested and got caught up on correspondence and editing photos.

7 TIERED WATERFALL IN BANOS WHERE WE TRIED FOR A DIPPER

Carman said breakfast would be ready at 08:00, so we began walking the road past her hotel about 07:00.  One of the first birds we saw was the White-capped Dipper, way below in a side stream.  However, Mitch was not with us yet.  It would be a lifer for him and high on the hoped for list.  So we texted him to come quickly.  So upon walking back to the hotel I met him and we relocated the bird.  This was probably the last place possible to find one, so thankfully we had success.  Otherwise, a young Roadside Hawk and Crimson-mantled Woodpecker posed nicely for photos, and it was nice to “see” and Azara’s Spinetail.  Others seen on the walk were Cinereous Conebill, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Green Jays, Sierran Elaenia, White-crested Elaenia and a Black-tailed Trainbearer.  

CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER

Carman told us there was a good place for birds farther up the same road we went the previous day called La Casa del Arbol, which had lots of flowering plants and hummingbirds, so we headed “up” there.  Here we finally got good looks at a Mountain Velvetbreast and a Glowing Puffleg (Hummingbirds).   Along with 5 other species of hummers, we had good looks at Emerald Toucanettes, White-sided Flowerpiercers and Saffron-crowned Tanagers.   Upon heading down the trail Eric found a small snake.  It is almost ironic that we saw no snakes in the jungle, but here we were at around 6,000’ elevation and found one.  We walked farther up the road and saw Lactrimose Mountain Tanagers, Blue-and-black Tanagers, Beryl-Spangled Tanagers and another Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, and a few Mountain Caciques.  

THE ONLY SNAKE WE SAW

SAFFRON-CROWNED TANAGER

It was now time to return to the Quito area, about a 3 hour drive from Banos.  Around the half way mark was some sort of a pond I knew of where some shorebirds might be.  It was a little confusing to get there, but we added Killdeer, Lesser Yellowlegs and Andean Teal to the list.  Another 3 hours to the Springhills Hotel.  Sometime during our stay there the guys learned that their flight was delayed from 1 AM to 4 AM, which meant they’d need to extend our reservation for one more night, and the owner was congenial such that we all could continue in the rooms we were already in.

We left for the Antisana Reserve around 6:30 the next morning.  I had texted a local bird guide who said if we were at the Condor viewing platform by 08:00 we’d be OK, meaning we should see the condors across the valley on the huge rock face, or at least see them circling overhead.  We scanned the rock face thoroughly but they were not there.  I panicked a little because this was a big deal, and lifers for 2 of the guys.  

After checking in we began ascending “up” to the paramo.  In the lower areas we found a Merlin, Tawny Antpittas, Andean Tit Spinetail, Many-striped Canastero, Tufted Tit Tyrant, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, and Brown-bellied Swallows.  About a third of the way up a bus full of young Europeans passed us, and we soon pulled up in back of them.  Some were birding.  At the time we were viewing both Chestnut-winged and Stout-billed Cincloides.  And just then Mitch said he was on a Condor which was flying high to the south.  Sure enough, it was a Condor.  I was relieved, and even more so after we tallied 8 or so by days end.  

PART OF THE SCENERY

WE GOT OUT AT THE PASS FOR PICS

THE AIR WAS A LITTLE THIN HERE

A DISTAND PIC OF AN ADULT CONDOR

We stopped at the pass.  My Altitude app read 13,420 feet.  The air was thin but no one was affected with altitude sickness.  The vistas were simply magnificent! We took a few pics as well. 

Farther up the road the bus had pulled off again, and this time they were viewing 2 Andean Ibis, not that far off the road.  A lifer for the guys and not a guarantee here, even though they breed here.  There were plenty of Carunculated Caracaras around, but no Andean Lapwings.  In the past I had seen dozens of lapwings here.  We assumed that because it was dryer than usual they were somewhere else.  

After parking in the large parking lot, we checked in and walked to the huge lake.  This lake is the water supply for the city of Quito.  We quickly saw Andean Ducks, the South American version of the Ruddy Duck.  Scan as we might, we could not find a Silvery Grebe.  We did find a baby Grass Wren.

THE TRAILHEAD TO THE LAKE

We meandered back down to lower elevations with plans to stop at a certain restaurant which had hummingbird feeders, with hopes of seeing the Giant Hummingbird and Great Sapphirewing.  But 5 minutes after getting there that bus load of people arrived with plans to eat here, so we opted to go across the road to another restaurant.  While waiting for our meal Mitch saw 2 Condors land on the cliff face across the valley, the same cliff we scrutinized earlier.  He said something like, “Now where can you eat a meal and watch condors at the same time.”  It was a nice way to end to day.  We did see a Great Sapphirewing but dipped on the Giant Hummer.  While waiting around 3 Black-winged Ground Doves came in, lifers for the guys.

THE RESTAURANT FROM WHERE WE COULD
WATCH CONDORS ON CLIFFS ACROSS THE VALLEY

And so our 2 week birding adventure came to a close.  The guys would fly back early the next morning.  I woke up around 3:30, and could sense I was not going back to sleep, so decided to start out driving south and see how far I’d get.  It was about a 12 hour drive home, something which might be best to break in halves - 6 hours that day and 6 the next.  The first 3 hours was trying.  I was not really dozing, just tired.  About daylight, when I normally get up, I became more awake, drank more coffee, and kept driving.  I stayed wide awake and enjoyed the scenery, places where I’d not seen before.  When I got to Loja I saw Rosie had texted me saying, “It would be nice to know where you are.”  So I wrote back saying I was in Loja and would be home shortly.  And it was good to be back home.  I slept quite well that night.  

Aside from the many birds we saw, there were plenty of other interesting features of our trip.  

THE SCENERY:  The Andes Mountains have an endless variety of formations.  Roads are few and far between and often subject to landslides when there is heavy rain, and an extended straight stretch in the exception.  And due to the airflow from both east and west, rain is to be expected.  This results in endless streams and rivers with their beautiful waterfalls.  At one overlook we were able to scan the vast Amazon Basin which stretched for miles to the east.  The jungle has a different sort of charm with its dark interior and humid essence.   Snow covered Antisana was just amazing!  Snow on the equator may seem foreign to our way of thinking, but at 16,000’ and above it gets cold. 

INSECTS:  Butterflies probably stood out the most here.  They were present everywhere we went.  The big blue Morphos in the lowlands were like flashing neon signs as they flitted along, and we saw many just from the boat.  Moths were all over as well.  One of us stepped on a fire ant colony and paid the price.  We’d occasionally see a bird with a large insect, a katydid or grasshopper.  Caterpillars were also well represented.  6” walking sticks were odd.  We could have done with less chiggers while at Shiripuno.  Aside from the chiggers the insects were not bothersome, for the most part. 

FLOWERS:  Yep, everywhere there were flowers.  Orchids were everywhere except at the Antisana Reserve.   It is always nice to see new varieties in every imaginable color.  And wherever there were red flowers there were likely to be hummers nearby. 

MAMMALS:  We saw some 6 species of Monkeys on the trip to Shiripuno, and a Kinkajou. The sloth that Eric found was intriguing, as was the Tapir he saw.  White tailed deer were common in the Antisana Reserve, and the horses there may have been wild.  That obliging Spider Monkey near Tena who came right up to us while on the tower was a hoot. Rabbits here and there. Fruit Bats at Shiripuno were a nice diversion.  Did I miss any?

Fernando:  Our guide at the Shiripuno Lodge and Jungle.  He was simply amazing and we owe a debt of gratitude to him.  His grasp of birds, animals, insects, plants and all their symbiotic relationships was encyclopedic.  We often stopped along a trail so he could explain something. Unfortunately or not, the younger generation gravitates toward the cities for an easier life and knowledge such as he had is fading.  

A CLOSE UP SHOT OF THE ZOMBIE MOTH FUNGUS.  FERNANDO EXPLAINED THAT THE ONLY THING KEEPING
US SAFE IS ONE DEGREE OF TEMPERATURE.

We ended the trip with a total of 570 species, far more than expected by any of us.  Of that total 59 were hummingbirds. 

In all that birding we somehow missed………Shiny Cowbird.