Various Oregon Birding Piks: COTACACHI

FEB 16. THURSDAY: It was just over a 3 hour drive to get to Cotacachi with Cesar driving. We were in this area 15 years ago, and my how it has grown. We did not recognize much of it because of the urbanization. One thing we did remember was when the lake, Lago San Pablo, came into view. It sits at the foot of Imabura, a 15,121 foot extinct volcano, and the lake shore is populated fully, showing buildings along its shoreline. Cotacachi is about 75 miles north of Quito.

We had some difficulty finding our airbnb, because apparently the GPS coordinates were not accurate, and so the owners had to text a different set. It is located in a fairly quiet part of town, and our lodging is surrounded by a tall concrete wall. The main house is somewhat of a mansion by Ecuadorian standards. Our building is set off to the side and has a front door for the living room, bedrooms, and kitchen. And the 3 dogs are friendly and almost barkless.

Cotacachi is the leather capitol of Ecuador. We walked to the main drag and for a few blocks there was one leather store after another. And in the main park were leather vendors selling their leather belts and bags. We found a restaurant which made sub sandwiches, so each had our fill.

The last time we were here was in 2008, and we had eaten at a place which had a courtyard surrounded by balconies. The owners came and sat with us then and we had a nice chat. I remembered it being adjacent to the large Catholic Church, which was right outside where we ate our sandwiches. But after checking the area over, it appeared that the former place we ate at some 15 years ago was now a parking lot, or so it seemed.

We got directions to the local supermarket and headed off that way when we spied another large Catholic Church. (Two Catholic Churches in a town this size seemed overkill?) So we veered off to the right towards it, only to find a dentist sitting outside his office, chatting with another elderly gent. He was open for business so we went in and he assessed my chipped teeth in the lower front. He decided there was nothing that should be done with them, so we trusted his judgment and continued to the church. This time we found the old restaurant/hotel and had a chat with the new management. It brought back some memories.

After that we found the supermarket, stocked up on goods, and headed back to our rental. Like Vilcabamba, the people here are friendly and most greet you with a Buenos Dias or Buenas Tardes, even the younger generation.

The weather was warm, very pleasant. The owner Jaime says it just started raining yesterday, and is expected to rain some more in the next few days. When you look around at the mountains which surround the area it certainly looks like it is raining higher up as the dark clouds shroud the tops.

While here there are 2 lakes we’d like to visit. One is out of town from here, up high, and is similar to Crater Lake of Oregon in that it was a volcano some time in the past and blew its insides out, and filled up with water. (We never made it here) We were there in 2008, but the weather was not too inviting, so we did not stay long. There is a trail around it, but I think it is too long and difficult for us, but we may walk part way and turn around. But every day when we look up there it is shrouded in clouds, so we may not venture there.

The other is north of here just out of the next city, Ibarra. A road goes all the way around it, so we may opt to walk that, which is probably a 5 mile jaunt. (It was more like 8+ miles!) The owner, Jaime, says there is now a walking/bike trail around the entire lake, and so lots of folks use it.

Aside from those walks, we have an interest in the weekly outdoor produce market. (Apparently it is daily) We have to find out just where it is and check it out. We are now firmly in indigenous territory, and so farming is much in evidence, and the market should be loaded with what is grown here. Many of the women here wear long black skirts and some sort of a roll on their long black pony tails.

We went for a walk Saturday afternoon, and found a side road which looked quiet, so meandered down it. It gradually went downhill toward the river/canyon. It was scenic and pleasant. About a half mile along, we saw a field with sheep, and then noticed a woman sitting on the ground, apparently guarding them. We struck up a conversation with her with our limited Spanish and google translate app. Eventually her mother came along, and we all had fun trying to communicate. In the course of the conversation I showed her pics of our cat Buster. Those pics always elicit laughs, so I think it paved the way for them feeling more comfortable with us. I asked them if I could take their pic, and they said, “Por que,” which means Why”. I said because there were “Muy Bonita,” which means because they were so beautiful.

It just so happens that our first weekend here is “Carnaval.” And apparently is extends to Tuesday of the following week. We hear the kids like to throw water balloons and use foam spray as part of the celebration, so we bought some of the spray, and hope we don’t get plastered with the balloons. By Sunday we have not seen much “celebration” type activity, but I did see a number of families who headed to church early. I’m still uncertain about this “celebration.” The first two days are supposed to be devoted to the Catholic “lent” and the rest some sort of fiesta.

We then walked to town, which is about 1/2 mile, to buy more food and look for scandals. Rosie bought some, but the pair I wanted cost $45, so I passed. (I eventually did buy some sandals) The leather jacket I tried on cost $150, so I passed on that as well. Stores were just opening up, and we walked to where we heard the produce market was. It appears produce is less expensive here than in Vilcabamba. Jaime says it is all organic, which, when compared to the states for the same, is a real bargain. (Some reasoning behind the organic produce is that most of the small farmers are subsistence farmers, meaning, they make their living from growing produce. With the rich volcanic soil almost anything can be grown. And if this has been going on for centuries, why does one need chemicals to “help” things grow? Plus, they can barely afford such anyway.). Dragonfruit was 4/1.00, which is half what it was in Vilcabamba. We saw lots of apples and peaches and pears and grapes. Assume much of that is grown here rather than imported. The mangos looked mostly green, so we passed on them. We bought a cantaloupe from a lady who had a wheel barrow full of them, for .65. We saw another lady toting a wheel barrow full of strawberries and grapes, an interesting sight.

One person told us it was the end of the rainy season, while another told us it was the beginning of it. Our weather app indicates rain for the next week, so we are not sure which it is. The owner Jaime says there is not consistent rainy season here.

The birding here is probably not even on par with Vilcabamba, so that should tell you it is not great. However, I did finally see some Scrub Tanagers, so now I’m hoping to get a decent pic of one.

SCRUB TANAGER

I also saw a White-tailed Kite, a reminder of home, and new for Ecuador. I’ve been looking over the eBird hotspots and plan to take a couple of short jaunts for birds I’ve not seen as yet. One is to the sewage treatment plant/wetland over in Otavalo, just 3-4 miles away, where the large Lago San Pablo lake is.

Rosie is coming down with some illness today (Sunday - 2/19/23) so I probably won’t be going anywhere til Tuesday or Wednesday. I’m pretty sure she’s gotten Montezuma’s revenge, or, travelers diarrhea from drinking the water. Before lunch when it was sunny I brought one of the kitchen chairs outside to enjoy the day. Jaime came out to join me, and we talked for an hour. Turns out he has his own export clothing business. He has locals make him clothes, which he takes to the USA where he has developed customers. Mostly native Americans from Minnesota. He sends over 10,000 lbs at a time via cargo shipments right out of the Quito airport.

Monday, Feb 20, Rosie is still sick, so I went for a walk this morning, north of our cabin. I’ve now been down that road twice. This time I veered off to a scrub field and walked the length of it, which was about 200 meters. There were plenty of small birds, and I came away with 2 lifers, Agile Tit-tyrants and Grassland Yellow Finches. But I did not bring my camera. Otherwise it was a beautiful sunny morning and I walked 2 miles. On one stretch there is a gated community of ex-pats, and there is a 200 meter stretch of hibiscus bushes, many in bloom.

Tuesday, Feb 21. Rosie still sick, but certainly felt better today. Her gut is still affecting her, but her headache was pretty much gone. So I went for a walk to the same place as yesterday, hoping for photo ops. Right out of the gate I met a Canadian couple who were going for a walk, as far the field where I was going, so I obtained some good info from them about living here and etc.

At first the field did not seem to be yielding much, but by the 2nd walk through it, birds started showing themselves. So I got pics of Black-and-white Seedeaters, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Cinerous Conebill, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, and Band-tailed Seedeater. After that I walked the road on the opposite side back home and photographed Tropical Mockingbird, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Southern-beardless Tyrannulet, Hooded Siskin, White-tailed Kite, Plumbeous Sierra Finch, Grassland Yellow Finch and Scrub Tanager. The tanager was a big deal as it was high on my pic list.

Upon getting back Rosie wanted me to head to town for some electrolyte powder, so I readied my stuff, which included some spray foam in case I met any mischievous kids. Went to the ATM first, then the Farmacia for the electrolyte powder, and then a certain coffee shop for a lb of coffee and some chocolate. It was mid day, and the stores were just opening up, and not many folks strolling the streets. I only saw one family with kids who were foam spraying.

Wednesday Feb 22: Rosie feeling better. I went to the Pharmacy and asked for a medication which Anne Rapsin recommended, and so got Rosie the 2 doses. After that I headed out to take the bus to Otavalo. Right out of the gate there was a male Kestrel sitting over the road, maybe 50 feet up. I walked right under him, and he stayed put, so got out the camera and snapped a few pics. First time one has ever done that. Right as I was getting to the bus stop, a bus stopped and I hopped on. The cost……35 cents. At the terminal in Otavalo I got a taxi about 5 miles to the waste water treatment plant/wetlands where birders go. My big target was the Subtropical Doradito. I know, it sounds like a corn chip.

I finally found an entrance and slowly meandered around. Plenty of Cattle Egrets around, plus one Snowy Egret. I played the Virginia Rail call, one responded, so another tick for the Ecuador list. There were Blue-winged Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Common Gallinule, both Yellowlegs and a Solitary Sandpiper. A little farther along and there were 3 Southern Lapwings, another nice tick for Ecuador.

There was plenty of reeds in which the Doraditos are, and seemingly everyone who comes here finds one. But after about 45 minutes it started raining, so I donned my raincoat and got out the umbrella. I have to admit it was pretty damp and the ground quite spongy. I ended up taking pics of the Lapwings in the rain and around the corner more pics of ducks and a Little Blue Heron. After about 30 minutes of scanning the reeds in the rain, I finally spotted a small yellow bird atop a reed. Bingo! My lifer Subtropical Doradito. He dove into the reeds after about 30 seconds, so I walked closer to where he was, but he did not want to show again.

After that I began the return jaunt, heading out to the highway, catching a bus, and then another back to Cotacachi. By the time I got home the rain stopped, and then I was editing my pics. My life list is now 1699, so I really need one more before heading back to the states.

Thursday Feb 23. Rosie was certainly in no shape to go anywhere, so I struck out north to Ibarra, to Lake Yahuarcocha where we visited some 15 years ago. The bus cost .65 there, and then a $5 taxi ride to the lake. My plan was to walk around the entire lake, walking the west shore first, which was long, straight and shady. There were lots of waterfowl, plus a nice variety of land birds. About half way along that stretch I spied a hummer high in a tree, a Woodstar by appearances. So I took pics to resolve him on the IPad.

Looks like they have their own version of the Loch Ness Monster.

The weather was pleasant, making the walk enjoyable. It took me about 90 minutes to walk the entire straight stretch as there were many stops for birds. At the end of that stretch the road turned right and morphed into a town of sorts. I repacked my camera into my day pack and walked a mile through the town. Part way into town I stopped and bought a small Orange soda and sat down to drink it.

I took this pic to illustrate that agricultural work takes place as high as they can plow or grow crops.

Shortly afterward I took a short jaunt down to the water’s edge, but it was mostly a waste of time as far as birding went. Part way along was a nice restaurant and on the roof was the largest Ecuadorian dog I’ve seen yet - a Great Dane. I’m glad he was up there because he was barking at me.

GREAT DANE ON THE ROOF

It continued to be nice weather and I did not unpack my camera for maybe a mile and a half down the road when I saw an immature Purple Gallinule in the weeds. I made the circuit around the lake in about 5 hours I think, and my pedometer read 8.3 miles. My hips were bothering me by the time I reached the entrance, where also I took a few more pics.

I was tired and prayed for a taxi, and one showed up as if on cue. A young woman driver probably in her mid 30s. She tried to communicate with me and I with her, and sometimes it worked, sometimes not. Another $5 to the bus terminal and another .65 back to Cotacachi.

After getting back I looked over my pictures, some 650 of them. I kept about a dozen of them, which is about average for that amount. The Woodstar was one I needed for my life list, which now made it an even 1700. I may leave it there and not try for more lifers for a while, but will take one if it comes my way.

Friday Feb 24: Today it was finally sunny from the start, and we could finally see the surrounding mountains. It was really pleasant to walk in the sunshine, and Rosie was up to a walk to town where we purchased a few supplies before heading home in a few days.

While on a walk afterward I met a man who had quite the accent, and as we talked about the weather, I said, “This must beat the winters in Ireland.” He said, “Scotland Lad!” I stood corrected, not that he really cared. He filled me in some on life in Cotacachi. He and his wife almost chose Portugal as a place to retire, but Ecuador had the edge. Toward the end of my walk I added one more bird to the trip list - Smoky Bush Tyrant. It is already on my Ecuador list, but I don’t remember seeing it, so it was nice for the confirmation.

Saturday Feb 25: We were feeling a little lazy and with the fact that we did not have much food left (on purpose) we headed to town for breakfast. We stopped at a small restaurant for breakfast and had scrambled eggs, fruit and a pastry. After that we strolled around, and as I had been having a tooth ache to my lower left back molar, I was beginning to wonder if I needed a root canal. Two years ago when in the country, the dentist opted to put a crown on that molar rather than a root canal. Now I was wondering if she made the right decision. We decided to see if the same dentist was open who I had gone to last week. He was, and after explaining my problem, he assessed it and believed I had an abscess. I guess that was a relief. He gave me an Rx for an ATB and pain reliever.

Sunday Feb 26: We headed to town after breakfast with our laundry. We asked the vendor who I bought a leather belt from where we could find someone who did laundry, and he asked a another vendor who said to continue straight and take a left at the 3rd block. We found that place closed, so we asked the lady in the tienda next door when it might open up. Turns out the laundry lady was across the street, so she agreed to have it done by 5 PM when we could return and pick it up at the tienda.

After that we strolled around town, buying chocolate and sandals for me and a leather purse for a niece. My current sandals were bought 2 years ago on the coast here, and the sole had started deteriorating, so I was due for new ones, and found some that were to my liking. We killed more time hanging out in a park and convinced ourselves we were hungry enough to have lunch. We opted on a nice place which was more expensive than usual, but we figured we could splurge for our last meal in a restaurant. We had spaghetti and fruit drinks while taking in the view of Mt Imbaburra.

We then went back to our rental where Rosie started packing. I figured that since the taxi was not coming til 11:00 the next day, I’d wait til morning to tackle that. Around 4:30 we strolled back to town and picked up our laundry and returned back to the rental.

Monday Feb 27: We packed early and I went for a walk. When I returned Rosie felt she could kill some time with me on a walk, so off we went. Our taxi was about 10 minutes early, so we loaded up and off we went towards Quito. It took us an hour and 40 minutes to get to our motel, which was probably great timing as the traffic was minimal. I walked around the area a few times. We had lunch there, but I don’t think we got what we ordered, but oh well, it was still good.

In the evening we ate some of our own food and then played a game of cards we had learned from our residents when we had an adult foster home, Rosie beating me like usual. There was another couple there who we struck up a conversation with. Turns out they were both MDs from Germany. So we got educated on life there, which is not quite how our media paints it. They were on a 2 month vacation and were less than half way through it.

Tuesday Feb 28: The alarm went off at 4:30 and the taxi came at 5:00 and we were shortly at the airport. I was sweating going through migration because we had gotten tourist visa extensions, and mine was not clear about the parameters, but they were eventually stamped and we were soon at the gate. The 4 hour and 10 minute flight was shortened by 30 minutes somehow, assume we had an unexpected tailwind coming into Miami.

It so happened that our plane landed at the same time as a few others, so there was a long line at immigration, which took maybe 25 minutes. Then we waited another 10 for our luggage, and then it took another 25 minutes to go through security. Why do returning citizens need to do that? We had already done such in Quito. We had about a 3 hour layover, one of which was taken up by what I just described.

The next connection led us to Dallas where we had over an hour layover, and then a 4 hour flight to Portland, where we found that our small carry-ons which got transferred to the check-ins, did not make it into the jet, so we are having to go without a few things for now. (They did get to us 2 days later via Courier service)

So that was the last of our 4 month vacation, and we hope you enjoyed the stories of our time there.

Here are some pics from around town: